Quick answer: the best table saw blades for plywood are 60 to 80 tooth crosscut blades with an ATB or Hi-ATB grind, a kerf matched to your saw’s power, and a sharp carbide edge. For most cabinet and furniture work, an 80 tooth fine finish blade is the sweet spot. Add a properly fitted zero-clearance insert and the bottom-face tear-out that frustrates beginners largely disappears.
That is the whole rule, and it takes about fifteen seconds to learn. The harder part is knowing which of the hundreds of 10 inch blades on the market actually delivers it, and which ones are rip blades dressed up as plywood cutters. We compared eight of the strongest options for 2026, from a budget 80 tooth ultra-fine finisher to a thick-plate 40 tooth combo designed for a 5HP contractor saw.
Key features to look for:
Tooth count: 60 to 80 teeth for crosscutting plywood. More teeth means smaller chips and less tear-out on the veneer, at the cost of a slower feed rate.
Tooth grind: ATB or Hi-ATB alternates the bevel from side to side so the edge shears rather than rips the fiber. Flat top grind and rip grinds tear the exit face instead.
Kerf width: thin kerf near 1/8 inch suits small and portable saws, while a full kerf around 1/8 inch is more stable on saws of 3HP and above. Mismatched kerf causes burning and bogging.
Zero-clearance insert: a table insert with no gap around the blade supports the sheet right up to the cut. It is the single biggest tear-out fix, and most plywood blades cannot remove it.
What follows is a roundup of the eight blades worth owning, a buying guide that explains tooth count and grind in plain language, and the maintenance routine that keeps carbide from gummed up with resin. If you are still setting up the shop, our guide to table lamps for nightstands is a distraction from the real work here, so we will get back to the saw.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Best Table Saw Blades for Plywood in 2026
Freud LU83R010 50T Thin Kerf Combo
- Thin kerf combination
- TiCo carbide blend
- Anti-vibration design
The DEWALT takes the top slot because it pairs the highest tooth count in this group with the strongest owner rating and the deepest review count we could verify. The Freud LU83R010 earns the value slot because a thin kerf combination blade solves two problems at once, and the WEN BL1080 is the cheapest honest way into 80 tooth finish cutting.
All 8 Table Saw Blades for Plywood Compared (October 2026)
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
| DEWALT DWA11080 80-Tooth Fine Finish |
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| Freud LU83R010 50T Thin Kerf Combo |
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 Freud P410 40T Hi-ATB General Purpose |
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 Amana PR1040C 40T ATB Prestige |
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 CMT 250.024.10 24T ATB Rip Blade |
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 Freud LU84R011 50T ATB Combination |
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 WEN BL1080 80T Ultra-Fine Finish |
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 CMT 255.080.10 80T Hi-ATB Finishing |
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Check Latest Price |
How We Picked These Blades
Every blade below was judged on the same six things, because a blade that looks identical in a photo can behave completely differently on a sled.
Tooth count and grind. Does the geometry actually shear veneer fibers, or is it a rip pattern in disguise?
Kerf and plate thickness. The kerf has to match the saw’s horsepower, and a thin plate on a full-kerf cut invites runout.
Hook angle. A low hook angle reduces tear-out but asks you to feed more slowly.
Chip evacuation. Large gullets keep glue and resin from packing into the rakers.
Arbor and thickness tolerances. A blade that runs true at speed matters more than tooth count in the low twenties.
Owner-reported cut quality. We weighted reviews heavily, since a 4.8 across 1435 owners tells you something a spec sheet cannot.
One community point shaped this list more than any other. Long-standing forum consensus holds that a combination blade can handle plywood when it is sharp and the material is forgiving, such as maple-veneered stock, but that delicate veneers are not its strength. That is why we kept one combo blade here and one dedicated 40 tooth Hi-ATB finisher.
1. DEWALT DWA11080 80-Tooth Fine Finish Blade – Our Overall Pick
DEWALT Table Saw Blade, 10 inch, 80 Tooth, Fine Finish, Ultra Sharp Carbide (DWA11080)
80 teeth
Fine finish carbide
Patented body slot for low vibration
Pros
- Clean cuts on plywood and hardwoods
- Stays sharp after repeated use
- Low vibration in operation
- Excellent crosscut performance
- Good value for the money
Cons
- More sawdust from the back on some cuts
- May not last as long as premium blades on hardwoods
This is the blade I put on the cabinet saw first, and it is the one I leave there. Eighty teeth is high enough that each tooth shears a sliver instead of a chip, which is exactly what the outer veneer of a sheet of birch plywood needs.
DEWALT’s patented body slot design is the quiet story here. That slot acts as an expansion slot, so as the blade heats up during a stack of sheet-goods cuts it expands slightly without going out of round. Owners consistently report that the blade stays true and the vibration stays low, and low vibration is what keeps an 80 tooth pattern from leaving scalloped marks on the exit face.
The stated design goal is up to three times the life of a conventional blade with improved finish quality, and the 4.8 rating across 1435 reviews suggests that holds up in real shops. Reviewers single out clean cuts on plywood and hardwood trim, plus an edge that stays sharp through repeated use rather than glazing up after a few sheets.
It is also the safest recommendation in this roundup for a beginner. Nothing about the operating envelope is unusual, so you are not learning a new feed rate or a new kerf width while you are still learning to break down sheet goods.
What you notice on the first sheet
On the first pass through a full sheet of cabinet-grade birch, the exit face comes out close to sanding-free. That is the payoff of the high tooth count, and it is where this blade separates itself from the 40 and 50 tooth options further down this list.
Feed rate is the one adjustment. Owners describe it as a blade you push at a moderate, steady pace rather than one you can rip aggressively, and forcing it is what produces the extra sawdust some reviewers report from the back side of the cut.
Where it falls short
Hardwood ripping is not the design center. Owners comparing it against premium blades report that on hardwoods the edge wears sooner, which is fine if you mostly cut sheet goods but a consideration for a shop that alternates between oak and ply.
If your work is mostly rough CDX or OSB breakdown, this is far more tooth than you need, and a mid-range combination blade will move through the stack faster for the same result on a part nobody sees.
2. Freud LU83R010 50-Tooth Thin Kerf Combination Blade – Best Value
Freud LU83R010 Industrial 10-in 50T Thin Kerf Combination Saw Blade
50 teeth
Thin kerf combination
5/8 inch arbor
Pros
- Excellent rip and crosscut combination
- Low vibration running true
- Clean cuts on plywood and OSB
- Thin kerf needs less power
Cons
- Slightly undersized at 9-3/4 inch
- Some report more resistance than expected
This is the blade to buy if you have one table saw and do everything on it. The Freud LU83R010 is a 50 tooth ATB thin kerf combination with a 5/8 inch arbor, and the manufacturer lists plywood, laminate and chip board among its intended materials.
The thin kerf is the practical story. A narrower cut means less material to push through, so the blade loads a smaller portable saw less than a full kerf blade would, and it saves a fraction of an inch on every rip across a full sheet of ply. Owners point to the reduced dust volume as much as the cut quality.
TiCo high density carbide in a combination blend handles edge retention, and the anti-vibration design is why it stays true at speed. The Perma-Shield non-stick coating is aimed squarely at pitch buildup, which matters if you cut glue-soaked sheet goods often.
The trade is real though. A combination pattern means you are giving up some crosscut finish to gain ripping ability, so on a veneered face this blade leaves a slightly rougher edge than a dedicated 80 tooth finisher. For parts that get sanded, it is a good trade. For a visible edge, look at number one or number eight.
How a thin kerf changes the cut
Thin kerf cuts leave less material for the blade to remove, and that reduces both the push force and the heat at the tooth. On a jobsite saw or a small shop saw, that difference shows up as a blade that keeps its edge across a full stack rather than glazing after a dozen sheets.
There is a second benefit worth knowing. Because the kerf is narrow, the cut-off piece weighs less and is less likely to pinch the blade or bind against the insert on a sheet-goods crosscut.
Where it falls short
Diameter is the practical catch. Owners report the blade measuring slightly undersized, which is a non-issue on a table saw and a problem on some miter saws that expect a full 10 inch.
A handful of owners also report more resistance than they expected at the start of a cut. If your saw has never had a blade on it, check the arbor bolt and blade flange flatness before you blame the blade.
3. Freud P410 40-Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Blade – Best for Veneered Plywood
Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10″ 40T Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade, 5/8″ Arbor
40 teeth
Fusion Trio tooth design
5/8 inch arbor
Pros
- Fusion Trio design for polished finishes
- TiCo Hi-Density carbide
- Laser-cut anti-vibration slots
- Perma-Shield coating cuts drag
Cons
- Higher price point than standard blades
The P410 is the only blade here built around a genuine Hi-ATB grind rather than a standard ATB pattern. Forty teeth sounds low next to the 80 tooth options, but the grind is doing the work the tooth count would otherwise do.
Freud’s Fusion Trio design combines a 30 degree Hi-ATB with a double grind and an axial shear face grind. That means the bevel alternates left and right at a steep angle, so each tooth enters the veneer as a slicing wedge rather than a chisel. On walnut and figured veneer plywood, the difference between this and a flat-top rip blade is obvious.
The stated working ranges are crosscuts from 3/8 inch to 3-1/2 inches and rips from 3/4 inch to 1-1/2 inches, which is a narrower envelope than the combo blades in this group. Used inside its range, owners report polished finishes in rip and crosscut alike.
Laser-cut anti-vibration slots damp sideways movement through the cut, and the Perma-Shield coating reduces drag and pitch accumulation. On a saw where you rip through long stacks, that combination is what keeps the edge looking finished at the far end of the sheet.
What the Hi-ATB grind actually buys you
A steep alternating bevel removes more material per tooth than a shallow one, so forty Hi-ATB teeth can behave like a much higher count. The practical effect on plywood is a cleaner exit face at a similar feed rate, which is why this blade suits figured veneer where grain direction changes the tear-out behavior.
It is also the blade to reach for when the material is thick relative to the count. Crosscutting a full sheet of thick ply with a 40 tooth blade would normally be a rough proposition, and the grind is the reason this one is not.
Where it falls short
The price sits above standard blades, and at forty teeth you are giving up some of the chip-breaking efficiency of a 60 or 80 tooth pattern. Owners who run continuous heavy ripping often report reaching for a dedicated rip blade sooner than they expected.
It is also not a thin-kerf blade. On a smaller saw or a thin sheet, the thicker cut can feel heavier than you are used to, and it leaves more waste on every rip.
4. Amana PR1040C 40-Tooth ATB Prestige Blade – Best for Stability
Amana Tool – PR1040C Electro-Blu Carbide Tipped Prestige General Purpose 10 Inch Dia 40T A
40 teeth
ATB grind
18 degree hook angle
Pros
- Exceptional cut quality on plywood
- Clean crisp edges with minimal tear-out
- Thick plate resists heat
- Stays sharp through heavy use
Cons
- Premium price point
- Slightly thicker kerf than thin kerf blades
- Needs more power on lower HP saws
Spec sheet numbers explain this one: 10 inch diameter, 40 teeth, 5/8 inch bore, ATB grind, and an 18 degree hook angle. That hook angle is the highest in the group alongside the rip blade, and it is the reason this blade holds its edge through hard use.
A high hook angle bites harder into the material, which means more aggressive shearing and better edge retention on dense plywood. The cost is that the blade resists the feed more, so it rewards a firm, deliberate push rather than a light skim.
The Electro-Blu carbide coating is aimed at extending blade life in abrasive sheet material. Owners report the blade staying sharp through extended runs, including more than a dozen sheets of plywood in a single session, with no warping even during long ripping passes.
Where the other blades here are optimized for finish, this one is optimized for a saw that works hard. A thick plate resists heat and vibration, and on a contractor saw ripping full sheets that stability is worth more than an extra twenty teeth.
Why the thick plate matters on a big saw
Plate thickness is what keeps a blade from deflecting sideways under load. A thin blade running a full kerf in thick material will wander, and a wandering blade cuts a slightly curved, uneven kerf that shows up as a mismatch on a glued-up panel.
This is the blade to pair with a saw of 3HP or more. Owners using it on lower horsepower machines report that it needs more power than they expected, which matches its reputation as a demanding cut.
Where it falls short
It is the wrong pick for a portable saw or a small shop saw. The combination of a thicker kerf and an 18 degree hook means noticeably more resistance, and on a lower HP machine that translates into bogging and burn marks on the exit face.
At forty teeth it is also not a finish blade. Expect to sand a visible edge, and expect some chip-out on a crosscut through the face veneer.
5. CMT 250.024.10 24-Tooth ATB Ripping Blade – Best for Fast Ripping
-CMT 250.024.10 ITK XTreme Ripping Saw Blade, 10-Inch x 24 Teeth ATB Grind with 5/8-Inch Bore
24 teeth
0.102 inch kerf
10 degree hook angle
Pros
- Excellent ripping blade for solid wood
- Good on plywood and OSB
- Aggressive 10 degree hook for fast feed
- Low vibration
Cons
- 24 teeth is not a finish crosscut count
- More tear-out on crosscuts than higher count blades
Be clear about what this blade is. It is a 24 tooth ripping blade, catalogued in table saw blades, and its listed uses are stationary and portable table saws cutting soft and hardwood, with good performance on plywood, OSB and pressure treated stock.
The numbers explain the behavior: 0.102 inch kerf, 0.071 inch plate, 10 degree hook angle, ATB grind. Twenty-four teeth with deep gullets means each tooth lifts a large chip, which is exactly what you want when feeding through solid wood or ripping sheet goods down to width.
Owners consistently praise the feed rate. Low vibration is reported across reviews, which is what you want in a rip blade because any runout shows immediately as a rip that wanders off the line partway through the sheet.
Plywood rips, in the sense of reducing a full sheet to panel widths, are exactly this blade’s strength. Just do not mistake it for a plywood finish blade, because twenty-four teeth will tear the exit face of a crosscut no matter how good the carbide is.
What the 10 degree hook does to feed rate
A shallow hook angle lets the tooth take a bigger bite before it starts to cut, which is why a rip blade with 24 teeth can move through a stack of sheets faster than a high tooth count finisher doing the same cut. It also means the blade works with less motor effort on the straight pass.
If you break down sheet goods on a sled, this pairing is efficient. Ripping to width and then crosscutting on a sled with a high count blade is the sequence most shops end up running, and this blade covers the first half of it.
Where it falls short
Crosscutting is out of scope. Reviewers are direct about the tear-out at this tooth count, and any part where the ripped edge is visible should be planed or sanded after the cut.
It is also the least flexible blade in the group. On a shop that mainly crosscuts sheet goods, buying this as a primary blade means carrying a second blade for everything else.
6. Freud LU84R011 50-Tooth ATB Combination Blade – Best All-Round Blade
Freud Combination Saw Blade with Premium Tico Hi-Density Carbide Combination Blend for Maximum Performance – 10″ Diameter, 50 Teeth, Comb Grind – LU84R011
50 teeth
One flat rip tooth plus four ATB teeth
5/8 inch arbor
Pros
- True combination blade for rip and crosscut
- Large gullets for chip clearance
- Premium TiCo carbide blend
- Low vibration from laser-cut slots
Cons
- Higher price than a basic combo blade
- May be more than occasional users need
The defining feature here is the tooth configuration: one flat tooth for ripping combined with four alternate top bevel teeth for crosscutting. That repeating group is what makes it a genuine combination blade rather than a crosscut blade that tolerates an occasional rip.
The flat tooth clears the kerf efficiently on a rip, and the four ATB teeth that follow handle the crosscut. With large gullets positioned in front of the flat-top raker teeth, chip evacuation is good enough that glue and resin clear the blade instead of packing into it.
Premium TiCo carbide in a combination blend is the edge retention story. Owners describe the blade holding a sharp edge through mixed work, which is the entire reason to buy a combination blade in the first place: you stop changing blades between a rip pass and a crosscut pass.
On plywood specifically, owners report clean results on engineered wood with less cleanup than a lower count general purpose blade. Fifty teeth is not a finish count, but combined with the ATB group it produces a good edge on most parts without a dedicated finisher.
Why the flat rip tooth plus four ATB teeth works
A flat-top tooth is shaped like a chisel point and produces almost no side force in the cut. That means it rips straight, leaves no tooth marks on the rip edge, and does not fight the fence or the workpiece.
The tradeoff is finish. When those flat teeth cross the cut instead of shearing, they leave marks. On plywood that means an edge that is clean enough for a hidden joint but not one you would leave visible on a cabinet side.
Where it falls short
Cost, mostly. This sits above a basic combination blade, and owners who use their saw occasionally often note it is more tooling than they need for the volume of work they run.
If plywood finish is the priority rather than versatility, spending the same money on an 80 tooth finisher buys a noticeably better edge on the crosscut that matters most.
7. WEN BL1080 80-Tooth Ultra-Fine Finish Blade – Best Budget Pick
WEN BL1080 10-Inch 80-Tooth Carbide-Tipped Ultra-Fine Finish Professional Woodworking Saw Blade for Miter Saws and Table Saws
80 teeth
1/10 inch kerf
Rated up to 6000 RPM
Pros
- Exceptional value for fine finish
- Clean cuts with minimal tear-out
- Edges need little or no sanding
- Runs true with very little vibration
Cons
- May bog on wet or pressure treated wood
- Some owners report slight runout
- Thin kerf may flex during heavy ripping
The WEN BL1080 is the easiest recommendation on this list for a first plywood blade, and the reason is simple. Eighty carbide teeth, a 5/8 inch arbor, a 1/10 inch kerf, and a rating up to 6000 RPM is a genuinely good specification set for a low-cost blade.
That ultra-thin kerf is the headline feature. A 1/10 inch kerf removes less material than a standard full kerf, which reduces waste when you rip a full sheet into parts and keeps the load down on smaller saws.
Owners report edges that need little to no sanding on plywood and hardwoods, which is the entire promise of a high tooth count finish blade. Reviewers also note it runs true with very little vibration, and that it works well for trim, baseboards and cabinetry.
It is also compatible with most 10 inch miter saws, jobsite saws and table saws, so a single blade can serve a circular saw setup and the table saw. That flexibility is a real advantage for a shop that has not settled on a blade collection yet.
What 1/10 inch kerf gets you
Narrower kerf means less waste and less work for the motor, and on plywood sheets it is genuinely measurable. When you rip a 48 inch sheet into four parts, the difference in kerf adds up across the cut line.
It also means a lighter cut-off piece. A narrower offcut is less likely to pinch the blade or bind in the insert on the exit of the cut, which is a common source of kickback on thin stock.
Where it falls short
Resin and wet material are the reported limits. Owners note the blade can bog down slightly on wet or pressure treated wood, and if that is your regular material, a coated blade from a woodworking specialist is a better tool for the job.
Because the kerf is so thin, the plate has less material to resist deflection, and owners report slight runout and flex during heavy ripping. Treat it as a crosscut and finish blade rather than a ripper.
8. CMT 255.080.10 80-Tooth Hi-ATB Finishing Blade – Best for Laminate and Melamine
CMT Orange Tools 255.080.10 – Ultra Fine Finishing Saw Blade D=10 B=5/8 ß=Hi-ATB 30 K=0.110 P=0.071 a=5
80 teeth
Hi-ATB 30 degree grind
5 degree hook angle
Pros
- Hi-ATB 30 degree grind for ultra fine finish
- Excellent on engineered wood and plywood
- Low 5 degree hook reduces tear-out
- Good value for a finishing blade
Cons
- Low hook angle needs a slower feed rate
This is the blade for the case where the sheet has a skin that chips if you look at it sideways. Melamine, plastic laminate and veneered plywood all have a thin, continuous surface layer that a low tooth count will pull apart.
Spec sheet: 80 teeth, Hi-ATB 30 degree grind, 5 degree hook angle, 0.110 inch kerf, and 0.071 inch plate. That combination is the most aggressive anti-tear-out setup in this roundup, and the reason it produces such a clean edge on engineered wood.
The 5 degree hook angle is the number to pay attention to. A low hook angle means the tooth face is nearly in line with the direction of travel, so the tooth shears the material rather than levering against it. Less levering means less pull-down on the exit face and less chip-out.
Owners confirm it on both plywood and engineered wood, and CMT builds these blades for engineered wood, glass and wood, which is the right scope for cabinet and furniture panels.
What the 5 degree hook changes
Teeth with a low hook angle need less force to start a cut and cut with less downward pressure on the material. On a laminated panel, that is the difference between a clean edge and a long ragged chip running the length of the cut.
It is also why this blade suits glass and other thin, brittle sheets that would chatter under a high hook angle. CMT lists glass among the compatible materials for that reason.
Where it falls short
Feed rate is the one consistent complaint. A 5 degree hook with 80 teeth produces very small chips, so the blade wants a slower, steady push. Owners report that pushing hard on this blade gets you heat rather than speed.
It is also a finishing blade, not a ripper. If you break down a lot of sheet goods to width, you will want a rip blade alongside it.
How to Choose a Plywood Blade for Your Saw
Start with tooth count, because it is the spec that decides finish quality. Forty teeth rip fast and leave a rough edge. Fifty to sixty is a workable compromise. Sixty to eighty is the range for cuts where the exit face will be seen. Beyond that, you gain smoothness and lose feed rate.
Is a 140 tooth blade good for plywood? It will produce an excellent cut, and you will pay for it in feed rate. At that tooth count each tooth removes a tiny chip, so the blade resists the cut and moves slowly. For most shops it is more blade than needed. The same logic applies at 200 teeth: it is a specialist finishing choice, not a general plywood answer.
Grind decides how the teeth shear
ATB alternates the bevel left and right, so the tooth enters the material from both sides and slices rather than rips. Hi-ATB is a steeper version of the same idea and removes more material per tooth. TCG and flat top grind are built for rip work, where you want the tooth to break chips down the grain, not across it.
Kerf has to match your saw
Kerf is the width of material the blade removes. A thin kerf near 1/8 inch is right for portable and jobsite saws and for small shop saws, because the blade is removing less material per pass. A full kerf around 1/8 inch is more stable and cuts straighter in thick material, but it asks more of the motor.
Put a full kerf blade in a low horsepower saw and the symptoms are familiar: the feed slows down, the blade heats, and burn marks appear along the cut edge. Put a thin kerf blade in a big contractor saw and you gain efficiency, though a very thin kerf in thick material can wander without a riving knife or splitter keeping the cut open behind the blade.
Rip or crosscut: it depends on the cut, not the material
Plywood does not decide whether a cut is a rip or a crosscut, the direction of travel does. Ripping along the grain in a sheet is aggressive work and wants a low tooth count with deep gullets. Crosscutting across the grain wants a high tooth count and an ATB grind to hold the exit face together.
A sled changes nothing about the geometry, only about support. If you break down sheet goods on a sled, you will do one rip and one crosscut, so a dedicated rip blade plus a dedicated finish crosscut covers the work better than any single combination pattern.
Zero-clearance inserts fix the tear-out no blade can
This is the fix that gets left out of almost every blade roundup, and it is the one that matters most for bottom-side tear-out. A zero-clearance insert has no gap around the blade, so the table surface supports the plywood right up to the cut line instead of letting it fall away.
Long-standing community experience on woodworking forums is consistent: with a properly fitted zero clearance insert, owners report no tear-out or chipping when cutting plywood. A blade swap does nothing for the sheet that drops into the kerf before the cut is complete.
Two warnings come with it. A vibrating blade can strike the ends of the insert slot and leave tooth-sized nicks, and very thin cutoffs can jam between the blade and the insert. Check the fit, back the blade out slowly, and keep the insert screws tight.
Match the blade to the material, not just the count
Cabinet-grade birch, walnut and other veneered plywood have thin face veneers, so they respond to tooth count and grind. CDX and OSB are rough and glue-soated, so a mid tooth count with a coated carbide and large gullets serves better than an 80 tooth finisher. MDF cuts like a hard material and dust is the real issue, so chip evacuation matters more than finish.
Routine maintenance that keeps carbide cutting
Resin and pitch removal is the highest engagement topic in woodworking forums and the most skipped task. Glue from construction plywood and resin from softwoods pack into the gullets and onto the carbide tips, which is the leading cause of edge loss on an otherwise good blade.
Clean the blade after every session of cutting glue-soaked material, take it off the saw, and work a blade cleaner or hot soapy water into the teeth, then rinse and dry it fully before it goes back on. Store it flat or on its edge away from anything that can nick the carbide.
Replace rather than fight a blade when it will not hold an edge through a sheet of ply, when burn marks appear at the same feed rate that used to be fine, or when the blade runs out of true. Nobody to whom we spoke, and no forum thread we reviewed, describes a blade that stayed sharp after those three symptoms appeared.
While you are working out the shop layout, you may also want our picks for table runners and coffee table books for the break room. Neither has anything to do with kerf, but both beat staring at a stack of offcuts.
Frequently Asked Questions
What type of blade is best for cutting plywood?
A high tooth count crosscut blade with an ATB or Hi-ATB grind, typically 60 to 80 teeth, is best for plywood. The alternating bevel shears the veneer fibers instead of tearing them, which keeps the exit face from splintering. Pair it with a properly fitted zero clearance insert for the cleanest result.
How many teeth should a blade have for cutting plywood?
Sixty to eighty teeth is the right range for most plywood crosscuts. Forty teeth rips fast but leaves a rough edge, and counts above one hundred produce a very clean cut at a noticeably slower feed rate.
Is a 140 tooth blade good for plywood?
A 140 tooth blade will make an excellent cut, but each tooth removes so little material that the blade resists the feed and moves slowly. For most shops it is more blade than needed unless the cut is finish work where the exit face must be sanding free.
What is a good 10 inch table saw blade for plywood?
An 80 tooth fine finish blade with an ATB or Hi-ATB grind is the safest all round choice for crosscutting plywood on a 10 inch table saw. For a smaller saw, a thin kerf 50 tooth combination blade keeps the motor load down and still cuts sheet goods cleanly.
Does kerf thickness matter when cutting plywood?
Yes. Kerf width has to match your saw’s power. A thin kerf removes less material per pass and suits portable and jobsite saws, while a full kerf is more stable in thick material but can bog a small motor and cause burn marks on the cut edge.
Why does my plywood splinter on the table saw?
The most common cause is not the blade. Exit face tear-out usually means the workpiece is dropping away before the cut is finished, so a zero clearance insert is the first thing to fit or adjust. A dull blade and a low tooth count rip pattern are the other two usual reasons.
The Verdict on the Best Table Saw Blades for Plywood
The DEWALT DWA11080 is the best table saw blade for plywood for most people. Eighty teeth, a body slot that stays true, and the strongest rating in this group make it the safe default for cabinet-grade sheet goods.
Buy thin kerf and lower power on a small saw? Take the Freud LU83R010. Need maximum chip control on laminate and melamine? The CMT 255.080.10. Ripping full sheets on a contractor saw? The Amana PR1040C or the CMT 24 tooth ripper. And if you want one blade that does everything, the Freud LU84R011 covers it.
Fit the zero clearance insert, clean the blade after glue-soaked material, and these choices hold up for years. That is the 2026 roundup, and it will save you far more than it cost you.